Monday, December 24, 2012

Make your own candy the easy way






This year for Christmas, I made baskets of home made goodness for friends. Amongst the yums was some jubies (or gummies, whichever you choose to call them) and I thought I might add a quick tutorial on how to make them. They are very simple, really fast and aside from the heat factor, your kids can make them with you!

You will need:


Plain gelatin in powder form 
a pack of jelly (jello) crystals. Any flavour is fine. I have Aeroplane jelly in lime and creaming soda, Ive also used cheap no name brand jelly and while it works the same the flavour isn't as intense.
Silicone moulds. Mine are chocolate/Icecube ones so quite small. You can use more solid ones but I find the silicone the easiest to get the finished product out of.
Glad (cling) wrap
A solid glass bowl
A saucepan the bowl will fit inside
a spoon for stirring
I have a mini ladle for scooping the liquid into the moulds, a soup ladle would work fine
1/2 cup and a tablespoon for measuring


Into the glass bowl put 1/2 cup cold water
Sprinkle 4 Tablespoons of plain gelatin over the water.


Tip the packet of jelly crystals in too


Stir it all up, it will have a consistency similar to clag paste



Cover the bowl with cling wrap and let is stand for 10 minutes



Heat a pot of water to simmering, once it is place the glass bowl inside and remove the cling wrap. Melt the Jello mush.



When there are no solid parts left and the mixture is runny remove from heat and let sit for a minute (Warning: Glass will be HOT) 



Scoop the liquid into the silicone moulds. Don't worry too much about making a mess


Place the moulds in the freezer for 10 minutes, then move them to the fridge for a further 10 minutes


CLEANING TIP: Let whats left in the bowl set, then you can just peel it off the bowl before washing it. Makes for a much less sticky mess.


Once your jubies are turned out let them sit and reach room temperature before packaging them, providing they last that long and you don't nomnom nom them!
Told you it was easy!! Make them in many flavours for some mixed jube fun!

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Spikes and Stripes Preemie Beanie Pattern

Hello beautiful people and a very warm seasons greetings!

Todays pattern has actually been released for a little while, as a part of Sunset Crochet's 12 days of Christmas Charity Crochet Challenge! It was an absolute honour to design a pattern for this challenge and I have loved seeing all the photos of the hats people have made, both from my pattern and others. I hope to design for it again if she run's it next year!

Now that the challenge has been running for a while I figure its time to blog the pattern so everyone can get access to it here <3 If you are interested in the challenge which runs through to Jan 6th check out Sunset Crochet's Facebook Page






Stripes and Spikes



Finished hat should be 4 inches in height and 5.5 inches wide when laid flat, and will fit a baby born at 30-32 weeks gestation.


Simple little beanie that ties in stripes and spikes to create a unique look. This beanie looks fantastic in both pastels and bold colours. It is recommended that you end on a lighter colour so it does not clash with the skin tone of prem babies.


Supplies:
3.5mm hook
3 colours of DK weight yarn, I use Moda Vera Marvel but any acrylic or cotton DK yarn is fine
Needle for weaving in ends.

How to make an extended hdc (exhdc): start your hdc like usual by looping the yarn over the hook, instead of inserting the hook into the next stitch, insert it into the stitch directly below the next stitch, from the previous row, do not pull tight, complete the hdc like normal.

Starting with colour A

1: ch3, 14dc in the first ch, join (14)

From here on in, starting chains count as a stitch.

2: ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each remaining stitch, join (28)

3: ch3, dc in the same stitch, *dc, 2dc* repeat around, join (42) Do not end off colour A, just drop it so you can continue with it later.

Join colour B with a sl st

4: hdc in each stitch around, join

Pick up colour A

5: ch2, hdc 2, *exhdc, hdc 3* repeat around, join

Pick up colour B

6: hdc in each stitch around, join

Pick up colour A

7: ch2, hdc2 *exhdc, hdc3* repeat around, join

Pick up colour B

8: hdc in each stitch around, join

Pick up colour A

9: ch2, hdc, *exhdc, hdc3* repeat around, join

Pick up colour B

10: hdc in each stitch around, join

Join colour C

11: ch2, *hdc3, exhdc* repeat around, join


12: hdc in each stitch around, join.

End off with all colours and weave in ends.


Pattern and Images by Myshelle Cole 2012
DO NOT USE IMAGES
Do not redistribute, re-upload or resell this pattern.
Find more Prem and Angel baby patterns via my Ravelry page, Linked below.


Friday, December 7, 2012

Bunches of Barbie Bags - Crochet Patterns




Hello once again!

Today I have some very small, very quick and easy accessories for you to crochet. Barbie bags! Because we know with all the clothes Barbie has, she simply must have bags to match!

Here are a set of 4 bags for Barbie. All open and can be used to put small items in (perhaps Barbie needs to tote around some shoes or sunnies, who knows!) They use varying hooks and yarns so please read the supplies list on each one. There is a large granny bag, a produce bag (just like the string ones mum takes to the stores!!), a handbag with a front flap and a little basket type bag.

Id also like to put it out there that I am open to ideas, suggestions and requests when it comes to crochet patterns for Barbie, Ill do my best to work something up!

So onto the bags!




1. Granny Bag
2.5mm and fingering weight yarn (fine baby)
I used Moda Vera Gelato
Make 2

R1: ch4, join to make a loop.

R2: ch3, dc twice more into the loop *ch2, dc 3 times* 3 times, join. (ch2's make the corners, you should have a very small square)

R3: sl st across to the first ch2 corner space, ch3, dc into the space 2 times, ch2, dc into the same space 3 times (one corner complete) *ch1, dc 3 times, ch2, dc 3 times* into the remaining 3 corners, join with a sl st. Finish off and weave in ends.

Place the 2 squares together and join your yarn with a sl st in a corner. sc evenly around 3 sides of the squares which will stitch them together to form the bag. Be sure to put 2-3 sc in the corners to help the bag retain its square shape. when you get to the top of the bag do not end off. Chain 30 to make the bags handle, sl st to the opposite corner to join the handle. End off and weave in ends.





Produce Bag
crochet thread
2.5mm hook
4mm hook

R1: with the 2.5mm hook ch3, dc into the 3rd ch 8 times, join

R2: ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each remaining stitch (16) (ch3 counts as dc)

R3: Swapping to the 4mm hook for the middle of the bag , ch3, dc in each st around

R4: ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), sk 1 *dc, ch1, sk1* repeat around, join

R5: sl st into the next ch1 space, ch4 (dc and ch1), sk 1 *dc, ch1, sk1* repeat around, join

Swap back to the 2.5mm hook to complete the top

R6: ch1, sc in the same space, sc in each ch1 space and dc around, join (16)

R7: ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

R8: (handles) ch1, sc in the next 4, ch4, sk4, sc in the next 4, ch4, sk4, sl st to the ch1 to complete handles. Finish off weave in ends.





Basket Type Bag
3mm hook
dk weight yarn

R1: ch7, hdc2 in 2nd chain from hook, hdc in the next 4, hdc3 times in last ch, (working arounf the corner on the opposite side of the stitches you just completed) hdc in the next 4, hdc in the same stitch you started with, join

R2: ch2, hdc in the back loops only of each stitch around, join.

R3: ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join (14)

R4: ch2, 2hdc in the next, hdc in the next 7 stitches, 2hdc in the next, hdc in the last 5 stitches, join.

R5-6: ch1, sc in each st around, join.

For handles. I place my handles 4 stitches apart on the sides, you may choose to place them closer and have a longer handle. I mark off the 4 middle stitches on the side, slst to join the yarn, chain 10 and slst to the opposite side so the 4 middle stitches are between the handles. You could also ise ribbon for the handles.





Handbag with front flap
dk weight yarn
2.5mm hook
Small button

R1: ch9, hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and each across to the end, working on the opposite side hdc in each st back to the start, join

R2-3: ch3, dc in each st around

R4: ch3, TURN, dc in the next 4 stitches (If you wish to make the flap another colour this is where you would change your yarn)

R5-6: ch1, turn, sc, dc, dc, sc

Sew on a button to close.
For the handle, sl st to the side of the bag and chain as many as you like (I did 15)



Well there you have it. Some really simple bags that your little one will just LOVE adding to their Barbie collection. Imagine the colour combinations!


Friday, November 30, 2012

CatNip CatFish - Free Crochet Pattern




Hello again!

Well today's pattern is something a little new for me. Last night my local RSPCA posted on their Facebook that they were in need of donations of toys, food ect for the holiday season. I figured Id make a box full of cat toys and deliver the present all wrapped up from Cleo and Chloe (our kitties that came from there) Even furry friends need presents! Well of course, that means patterns! So Ill have a few cat toys up over the next few days.

I also have a few new Barbie patterns to get up, which I should have done by the end of next week.


While I have your attention: Please, Pets are NOT good gifts! So many pets end up at shelters across the globe after being unwanted gifts given for Christmas. Also remember that the very best place to find your furever friend is at a shelter, give some love to a pet who has none.


I promise, this will be the fastest cat toy you will ever make, they are so simple :) Why not whip up a few for your cats, and a few more for your local shelter.

CatNip CatFish

4.5mm hook
2 strands of DK weight yarn held together
small amount of stuffing
catnip

R1: ch2, sc 6 in the fist chain, do not join, place marker
R2: sc, 2sc in the next, repeat around (9)
R3: 2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 2 stitches (12)
R4-R6: sc in each stitch around
R7: sc2tg, repeat around (6)

Stop here and stuff your fish

R8: ch1, squeeze the open end together and sc the end together with 3 sc (3)
R9: ch1, turn, 2sc in each stitch (6)
R10: ch3, dc 3 times in the first st, sk1, sl st, sk1, dc 3 times in the last stitch, ch3 and sl st into the same st. Finish off and weave in ends.

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Hooded Cape and Capelet for Barbie - Free Pattern






Hello again lovlies!

Ahh, bet you didn't think Id be back this soon with another pattern! Made one of these snap decisions last night that I really wanted to make a new wardrobe of Barbie clothes for the girls for Christmas, which means I need to come up with a lot of new fun ideas! This is great news for you guys, because it means... dun dun duuuuuuun MORE PATTERNS!




Today's pattern is for a hooded cape or capelet depending on the length you want. So super cute and a great way to use up some of them fun fibres!



For the red cape I used a chenille yarn with glittery flecks through it, for the blue I used white funfur. There are so many fun yarns on the market these days that you could make a heap of capes and they would all look different! So, lets get crocheting!

Supplies:
DK weight (8ply) yarn in your main colour
Small amount of fun fibre in a contrasting colour (or you could use a plain yarn)
3.00mm hook
A small button for closing (or you can use ties, instructions for both at the end)

Starting with the hood:

dk weight yarn and a 3mm hook

R1: Chain 28, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and each across (26)
R2-5: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across (26)

NOTE: If your Barbie has a LOT of hair that you need to fit into the cape, I recommend starting with 34 chains instead of 28 for a little extra space.

End off leaving a long tail. Fold the piece in half longwise and sew up one side (see picture below) Weave in ends.



Join yarn to the bottom corner of the hood, We're going to work along the bottom of the hood, so the stitches will go in the end of the rows rather then in actual stitches.

R6: ch1, dc in the same space, dc in each of the next 9 end of row spaces (see image for more details) (10dc)




R7: ch3, turn, dc in each st across (10)

R8: ch3, turn, 2dc in each st across (20)

R9: ch3, turn, *2dc, dc* repeat across (30)

R10-17 ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across (30) (do only 3-4 rows for capelet)

End off main colour and weave in ends.

Join contrasting colour with a sl st to any corner and hdc around the entire cape.



Closing:

You can do this a few ways. I add 2 options to my cape. 1. sew a small button on the inside of the cape, so you can push the button through a stitch on the opposite side to hold it closed. 2. chain 50. Use the chain as a cord and weave it in and out around the base of the hood, tie in a bow.

Thats it peeps, I told you it was easy.



Monday, November 26, 2012

Barbie Mermaid Tail - Free crochet pattern






Hey howdy hey my fellow crochet peeps!

So this pattern has been a while in the making, and I figured with Christmas creeping up on us, it was time to get it finished so I could add some to the girls stockings, and perhaps you have a special someone that would adore a mermaid tail for their Barbie too!



Supplies:
1 rubber band that fits snug over the hips of your doll
DK weight yarn
3.5mm hook
1 button

Tail:

R1: Join yarn with a slst, ch1, sc 21 times around the rubber band, place stitch marker

R2: *sc, 2sc in the next stitch* repeat around (31)

R3-R5 sc in each stitch around

R6: *sc,sc,sc2tg* 7 times, sc in the last 3 stitches (24)

R7-8: sc in each stitch around (24)

R9: *sc,sc,sc2tg* repeat around (18)

R10-20: sc in each st around (18)

R21: *sc in the next 7, sc2tg* Repeat once (16)

R22-29: sc in each st around (16)

R30: *sc in the next 6 stitches, sc2tg* Repeat once (14)

R31-R34: sc in each st around

R35: *sc, sc, sc2tg* repeat twice more, sc in the last 2 stitches (11)

R36-R37: sc in each st around (11)

R38: *sc, sc2tg* repeat twice more, sc in the last 2 stitches (8)

R38: sc2tg around (4)
Finish off and weave in ends


Tail-fin
R1: ch15, sc in the 2nd chain from hook, sc in the next 11, sc2tg (13)

R2: ch1, turn, sc2tg, sc in the next 11 (12)

R3: ch1, turn, sc in the next 10, sc2tg (11)

R4: ch1, turn, sc2tg, sc in the next 9 (10)

R5: ch1, turn, sc in the next 9, ch2 (11)

R6: turn, sc twice in the second chain, sc 9 (11)

R7: ch1, turn, sc in the next 10, 2sc in the last st (12)

R8: ch1, turn, 2sc in the next st, sc11 (13)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing to end of tail.

Weave the yarn in and out of the end of the tail-fin and pull tight to get a bit of a gather, then sew it to the end of the main tail.

Top
R1: ch19, sc in the 2nd chain from hook and each stitch across (18)

R2-R3: ch1, turn, sc across (18)

R4: ch1, sc in the next 5 stitches, dc in the next 8, sc in the last 5

R5: ch1, turn, sc in the next 5, dc2tg, dc in the next 4, dc2tg, sc in the last 5

Weave in ends and add a button so the top can close at the back.
Now, I use a ball joint Barbie with a removable head (yes, removable head lol!) and her bust looks a little smaller then an older styled barbie. If you find the top too small, add some more chains to start in pairs of 2.

If you are making it for an older child (one that is past the put everything in the mouth stage) then you may like to add some random beads or sequins to give Barbie some extra sparkle!



Friday, November 23, 2012

Cathán Set - Free Crochet Pattern



A new set for you all today. I don't know if it is the colours that speak to me, or the way the little puffs look like clovers but I thought this set had a very Irish feel to it, and so I went with a name to reflect that. Cathán, pronounced CA hawn, means battler. I thought it fitting for a small prem gown.

Details and infos! This set was made for and with yarns provided by the  Maree of the Australian Outback Baby Project, I have to say, she has sent me so many lovely yarns for the project that Ill be sharing a heap of patterns as I work my way through the sea of colours.


Ok now, lets get down to the patterns!



You will need:
1 ball of your main colour in a dk weight yarn. I used white
1 ball of your contrasting colour in a dk weight yarn. I used green
3.5mm hook
Needle for sewing in ends.

Using these supplies your set will fit a baby of 22-24 weeks.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A PUFF: *Yarn over, insert hook, Yarn over, pull yarn through, 3 loops on hook* (Pull loops upward, so they are the height of a dc, you want to keep them loose but not too slack) Repeat this twice more, you will have 7 loops on your hook. Yarn over once more and pull through all 7 loops. One puff stitch complete. 


Gown:

Row 1: Chain 32, DC in 4th chain from hook, Dc in next 2 dc, (1dc, ch, 1dc) in next chain, *dc in next 6 ch, (dc, ch, dc) in next chain. Repeat from * two MORE times. Dc in last 4 chs; ch 2 and turn.

Row 2-4: dc in each dc, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space from the previous round, ch2, turn

Row 5: Sleeve Row: dc in each st to the first ch1 space, skip all stitches and dc in the next ch1 space. One sleeve made. Repeat to create the second sleeve, dc to the end, ch2, turn.

Row 6: ch3, *dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across, turn (41)

Row 7: Join contrasting colour with a sl st and chain 3 (counts as dc and ch1) *sk2, (puff, ch2, puff) in the next stitch, ch1* Repeat across, dc in the last stitch, turn

Row 8: Join main colour with a sl st,  ch3, *dc in the next ch1 space, 3dc in the next ch2 space* repeat across, dc in the last stitch.

Row 9-10 ch3, turn, dc in each st across

Repeat rows 7-10 once more.

Join contrasting colour with a sl st, sc in each st across. End off and weave in ends

Add either buttons or ties to the back to close.





Beanie:
Round 1: ch3, 12dc in the first chain, join.

Round 2: ch3, dc same, 2dc in each stitch around, join

Round 3: join contrasting colour, ch1, (puff, ch2, puff) in the same stitch as joining *ch1, sk2, (puff, ch2, puff) in the next stitch* Repeat around, joining to top of initial puff.

Round 4: Join main colour to any ch1 space, ch3, dc in the same space *2dc in each ch1 and ch2 space around*

Round 5-7: ch3, dc in each st around, join. End off main colour.

Round 8: Join contrasting colour,  ch1, sc in each stitch around, join and end off. Weave in all ends.






Booties Make 2.
Row 1: ch11, hdc twice in 2nd chain, hdc in the next 8 stitches, hdc 4 times in the end stitch, continuing on the opposite side, hdc in the next 8  stitches, 2hdc in the same stitch you started in, join

Row 2: ch2, TURN, hdc in the next 11 stitches, 2hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, hdc in the remaining 11 stitches, do not join.

Row 3: chain 2, hdc in the next 4 stitches, hdc2together 9 times, hdc in the last 4 stitches. End off main colour.

Row 4: With contrasting colour, ch20, slst to join on one corner of the bootie, ch1, hdc in the same stitch, hdc in the next 3 stitches, dc2together 5 times, hdc in the next 3 stitches, ch2, sl in last stitch, chain 20 to make the remaining tie.

Weave in all ends.



Monday, October 29, 2012

Archie Gown - Free Crochet Pattern



Hello again lovely people! Another gown release today, this time one that is more suited for a boy (but could still be girly, or even plain neutral)

The stitch is a simple one, Im not even sure exactly what its called but it creates a beautiful effect when striped.
I named this one the Archie gown. Archie is short for Archibald, and that means Brave. Quite fitting <3

Like the Davida, it doesn't have an actual size, it depends entirely on your yarn and hook size. General rule of thumb 22-24 weeks is made using a 3mm hook and some baby 4ply fingering yarn, DK 8ly yarn and a 4mm hook and will fit around 26-28 weeks.



Archie Gown:

Row 1: Chain 32, DC in 4th chain from hook, Dc in next 2 dc, (1dc, ch, 1dc) in next chain, *dc in next 6 ch, (dc, ch, dc) in next chain. Repeat from * two MORE times. Dc in last 4 chs; ch 2 and turn.

2-4: dc in each dc, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space from the previous round, ch2, turn

5: Sleeve Row: dc in each st to the first ch1 space, skip all stitches and dc in the next ch1 space. One sleeve made. Repeat to create the second sleeve, dc to the end, ch2, turn.

6: ch3, *dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across, turn

7 and all remaining rows until desired length: ch1, *sk 1, (sc, dc) in the next stitch together* Repeat across, turn

This creates a sloped small cluster type stitch throughout the gown.
You can change colours whenever you like, and as always, Ill be adding my own to the ravelry page so be sure to check there for ideas on colours and feel free to add your own projects :D

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

Scrapbook Wednesday - Splotches

Well it has certaintly been a long time coming! YAY for finally being organised. Here is a new scrap kit, Not a full kit, but some bits to play, which is what most of my scrap sharings are. I like making bits, You guys like using bits, thats a win/win!

Todays set has some papers, some ribbon and some clear topped buttons. Enjoy!




Sunday, October 21, 2012

Simple Sandals - Free Crochet Pattern




There is only one thing cuter then little baby feet, and that's little baby feet in little baby shoes! Its coming on to warmer weather now here in Aus, and so I thought it would be a great time to work on some baby shoes that are for the warmer weather.

Todays shoes are the Simple Sandal, and when I say simple, boy do I mean simple! They use hardly any yarn and can be whipped up in no time flat, and as a bonus they can be made equally as cute in boy and girl colours!

Simple Sandals: Newborn Size (0-3)
4mm hook
dk (8ply) weight yarn in main and contrasting colours
2 buttons
small needle for sewing on buttons and weaving in ends.

Making the sole: Contrasting colour

1: Chain 10, hdc in the 3rd chain from hook 4 times, hdc in the next 2 chains, dc in the next 4 chains, 6dc in the last chain, DO NOT TURN, working on the opposite side, dc 4 times, hdc twice, join to first hdc, then sl st to the next stitch so the yarn is close to the centre of the heel.

2: ch1, sc twice in the same stitch as the ch, 2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 10 stitches, 2sc in the next 2 stitches, sc in the next 10 stitches, join to the first sc, then sl st to the next to centre yarn.

3: ch1, 2sc in the same st as the ch, 2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 9 stitches, 2sc in the next st four times, sc in the next 9 stitches, 2sc in the last 2 stitches, join. End of, do not weave in ends (you will need it as a marker)






LEFT BOOTIE: Main Colour
Count 12 stitches on each side of where you ended off and place markers.

1: With toe pointing towards you, join yarn in the back loop of the marker to the left, ch1, sc in each stitch around, back loops only, join.

2: ch2, hdc in each stitch until you reach the second marker, ch2, TURN

3: hdc in each hdc around, ch2, turn

4: hdc in the next 3 stitches, ch2, turn

5-8: hdc in 3 stitches, ch2, turn

End off and weave in ends.

RIGHT BOOTIE: Main Colour
Count 12 stitches on each side of where you ended off and place markers.

1: With toe pointing towards you, join yarn in the back loop of the marker to the right, ch1, sc in each stitch around, back loops only, join.

2: ch2,turn, hdc in each stitch until you reach the second marker, ch2, TURN

3: hdc in each hdc around, ch2, turn

4: hdc in the next 3 stitches, ch2, turn

5-8: hdc in 3 stitches, ch2, turn

End off and weave in ends.

Join contrasting colour on the corner that will be covered by the strap (makes for a neater finish) and slip stitch around the entire bootie. End off and weave in ends. Sew on buttons, done!